It's not entirely clear at what point those sly Chicagoans pulled this off, but while many of us were distracted by the restaurant scenes in New York and San Francisco, Chicago was quietly getting its game on.
Alinea was named the best restaurant in the country by Gourmet last fall. Its restless wunderkind chef, Grant Achatz, has made a virtue of his restlessness, turning it into virtuosity. He's also a consummate tease: that explosive, amazing small taste you just had? Remember it, because he's not going to repeat it.
At Moto, Homaro Cantu hauls the dining experience into the science lab or vice-versa. There's the nitro sushi roll. There's 'synthetic champagne prepared by you.' And the rabbit comes with, but of course, 'aromatic utensils.' When you just want to grab a bite, Moto's not the place. If you're up for an adventure, say hello Moto.
Avec isn't as out there as Alinea and Moto, but it's a perfect reflection of the city's vibrant dining scene -- it's always buzzing and it's always good. The rap is that it looks like the inside of a sauna -- true. But the small plates of Mediterranean food score every time, which is why chefs from around town like to eat here when they're off duty.
written on Monday Feb 26, 2007
game,
set,
Chicago.
